Euphoric and excited, I finally ended up here, at Tenuta Mocenni.
As an educated and erudite sommelier, I already had the opportunity to get to know the elegant Sangiovese of Bindi Sergardi in its various expressions: La ghirlanda, Calidonia and 89, they all had triggered the empathetic desire to visit the winery right away to make this new and exciting oenological experience.
The exploration begins with an unexpected surprise. A pyramid. We are not in Egypt, not even with the Maya, we are in Chianti, just a few miles from Siena.
Could it be the magic of this pyramid that captures and channels the energy in these hectares of land?
I disguise as an exalted and extemporary Indiana Jones and fearlessly conquer the top of the pyramid.
Exuberant. Egocentric. Exhilarating.
From this elevated position, in unstable equilibrium, I can’t help but ponder about eternity. Meditating on the ethereal existential essence, I leave the skull to Shakespeare, to me a beautiful chalice of Bindi Sergardi (one day I will):
"To be or not to be... to drink or re-drink... ".
Exalted. Excited. Enraptured.
The vineyards are literally covered with stones of galestro, alberese and macigno del chianti, a unique characteristic in such enormous and evident quantities. The bunches of Sangiovese are still resting on the vines, awaiting only for the last, but most important days, before they are picked and brought to the cellar.
Eternal power of nature!
Will the efficient oenologists be able to transfer and concentrate all this extraordinary energy in the wine?
After an ethical and religious passage in the cellar between barrels and tonneaux, the tasting room and the moment of truth cannot escape me anymore.
Chianti Classico La ghirlanda, then the Riserva Calidonia and the Mocenni 89 la Gran selezione.
How to climb the steps of the pyramid to perfection.
An explosion of energy not so much as strength or power but rather as elegance, refinement, care and richness of nuances. Abundant, enveloping and full-bodied in the mouth, always supported by perfect freshness, the typical imprinting of this terroir. The tannin that in Mocenni 89 totally, I define erotic without fear, for its sensual velvety feel and the way it permeates in depth the structure of the wine itself. A fascinating teaser that calls for a sip, and another, and one more, just like an exuberant lover with the next kiss.
You got it man!
After the tour of the vineyards and winery, the one and only Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi in person, with her contagious smile, together with Rossella, leads the way now also with Elena through the tasting.
It is for Chianti Classico Ser Gardo from the “I Colli” Estate to open the dances, an excellent expression of Sangiovese, even if it lacks the distinctive flavor and minerality of his brothers from the Mocenni Estate. However, it is quite ready and captivating. Definitely an entry level of substance and quality.
After the above mentioned escalation of the Chianti Classico Mocenni, we leave the Sangiovese to open a 91, a Cabernet Sauvignon selected from the particle number 91.
Technically an igt, oenologically a supertuscan, basically a great wine.
The cabernet you don't expect, surprisingly different, deep ruby red color, intense aromas of black berries jam, blueberries and blackberries and even coffee, licorice, chocolate and balsamic notes of incense in the rear. Complex, fine and persistent to the mouth, however its softness is always well balanced by the natural freshness and a smooth and polite tannin. Just in the cellar and open it only on special occasions. A cru in Chianti Classico.
It’s been three hours now, literally gone in a blink of an eye, but I’m not ready to give in just yet. The energy of Bindi Sergardi is contagious, or perhaps it is the good wine, I don’t know. Surely it must be the kindness, expertise and friendliness of Rossella and Elena that keep me going.
So they decide to give me the coup de grace with an oenological gem. A treasure wine. A true rarity.
A wine obtained with an ancient winemaking technique, the government to the Tuscan use, obtained by drying a small part of Sangiovese grapes and fermenting the rest.
At the end of fermentation, the grapes previously dried are added to the must for further fermentation.
The result is a soft wine, rich in hints of ripe fruit and flowers, young and immediate.
Play with it and pair it with a beautiful board of many aged cheeses. A pleasant rediscovery.
It's getting late and it’s getting dark outside, so they literally throw me out! Had they not, I’d be there instead of being in front of my computer writing this article a week later.
But I'll be back.
Is it a promise or a threat?
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